@Kaarme Oof. It's
you who doesn't know anything about swords, my dude. Among those who actually know a thing or two about swords, "full tang" is the style of tang you find most commonly on kitchen or fixed-blade hunting knives, where the tang is the full width of the grip, conforming to its shape. A sword doesn't actually
need that kind of tang; in fact, it can really screw up the balance and harmonics of the sword to have that much additional weight in the hilt. It's great for thrusting swords, such as the rapier or the earlier Oakeshott Type XV, but not so much for swords that need their balance point further towards the tip for the added acceleration in order to deliver the kinds of cut that can sever limbs. On these kinds of swords, it's really not necessary to have a tang more than half the width of the blade, tapering to about a quarter of that width where the pommel slots on.
Of course, that's primarily for European style swords. For Middle Eastern swords, it's actually fairly common for the tangs to be fairly stubby, as the hilts are more often than not made of cast iron or steel, with the tang being held in place by a medieval form of resin epoxy (the same stuff they used to make composite bows). Even the katana doesn't have a "full tang", even though its tang is almost as wide as the blade, and there's even evidence of older blades (15-16th century or so) have a tang that only extended for half the length of the tsuka (so anywhere from 4-6 inches for an 8-12 inch hilt).
Oh, and as a parting food for thought: the diagram shown on
Page 20 is almost identical to the Japanese lamination method known as
Soshu Kitae, albeit adapted to suit a double-edged sword rather than the single-edged katana. This is information that is freely available on multiple websites and easily searchable; hell, that particular diagram shows up on the
Wikipedia page for Japanese Swordsmithing.