This is extremely helpful. I'm writing an isekai/alt-history with a Westernized imperial Vietnam and I'm having trouble making up court dresses that both emphasize the traditional Vietnamese and "modern" (to 1910s Vietnamese) Western elements. My "only" source for such a thing is Khải Định, a joke of a king. This post of yours really helpd me there.Yes, you're definitely correct about the role of emphasis. However, it's a bit worse than just that. (Here comes a long rant by a Westerner with interest in art and history: feel free to skip if the specifics bore you.)
See, the shoulder strap either goes above the epaulette (which is rare) or, most often, goes under, in which case, it gets some creases (this photograph of Oscar II of Sweden shows this very well), unless the should band is particularly narrow or the attached parts of the epaulette are particularly small (as in your first example). As for the bow, that was done far more attractively with a very different, more elaborate type of bow; usually they used methods that your sword wouldn't catch on (sometimes they would pin the thing, sometimes knot it (hard to see in portraits), typically attach it to the belt). All of which makes sense, given that it's descended from the baldric — the sword is still a part of the official diplomatic or court uniform of some European countries (Sweden, Belgium, and the UK, for starters). Actually, Western formal/ceremonial garb for men is descended from armour and military clothing, so anything that would get in the way so much so pointlessly would be at most a brief fad.
Some other examples of European court dress (since I had a hard time choosing):
Belgian diplomatic uniform
Court uniform of the British Empire (current in the UK)
Tsarist Russian court uniform
For comparison to what the artist has put Alexandra in (and no, I'm not talking about necklines; I mean the decoration and the train, or rather, the lack thereof):
Female court dress of an American visiting the British and Russian courts
Female court dress from Tsarist Russia (minus the kokoshnik, I couldn't find a good image that also included the kokoshnik and the train)
Another, but of an empress suo jure, Maria Theresa of Austria
I'd like to add, that the artists of these things love to add jewels to garments, which, aside from the abysmal aesthetics, would be a good way to damage the clothing and waste perfectly good material (metal, jewel, cloth, and all). Where as, all of the pictures both of us have provided, show elaborate embroidery (obviously, all done by hand, since machine embroidery is a. modern, and b. very limited in what it can do, as convenient as some find it). I'm not asking for historical accuracy here, just looking at sensible references to come up with something half-way decent looking.
You're welcome! I'm glad I could help.This is extremely helpful. I'm writing an isekai/alt-history with a Westernized imperial Vietnam and I'm having trouble making up court dresses that both emphasize the traditional Vietnamese and "modern" (to 1910s Vietnamese) Western elements. My "only" source for such a thing is Khải Định, a joke of a king. This post of yours really helpd me there.
Big thanks.
Thank you! It's on my reading list,I think I will read this next after I catch up to some of my current reading.https://mangadex.org/title/dbc4c472...wan-konyakusha-sama-no-kake-ni-notte-shimatta
Series is still cute anyway, though.
And your issue for physical releases with JNC never even an issue of just them, their physical releases always been done through approvals of other companies, and since they made an exclusive deal with Yen Press is all up to them now, not JNC, so unless they show sales Yen Press isn't going to approve anything
Thank god no manga creator is taking ideas from you.Yes, you're definitely correct about the role of emphasis. However, it's a bit worse than just that. (Here comes a long rant by a Westerner with interest in art and history: feel free to skip if the specifics bore you.)
See, the shoulder strap either goes above the epaulette (which is rare) or, most often, goes under, in which case, it gets some creases (this photograph of Oscar II of Sweden shows this very well), unless the shoulder band is particularly narrow or the attached parts of the epaulette are particularly small (as in your first example). As for the bow, that was done far more attractively with a very different, more elaborate type of bow; usually they used methods that your sword wouldn't catch on (sometimes they would pin the thing, sometimes knot it (hard to see in portraits), typically attach it to the belt). All of which makes sense, given that it's descended from the baldric — the sword is still a part of the official diplomatic or court uniform of some European countries (Sweden, Belgium, and the UK, for starters). Actually, Western formal/ceremonial garb for men is descended from armour and military clothing, so anything that would get in the way so much so pointlessly would be at most a brief fad.
Some other examples of European court dress (since I had a hard time choosing):
Belgian diplomatic uniform
Court uniform of the British Empire (current in the UK)
Tsarist Russian court uniform
For comparison to what the artist has put Alexandra in (and no, I'm not talking about necklines; I mean the decoration and the train, or rather, the lack thereof):
Female court dress of an American visiting the British and Russian courts
Female court dress from Tsarist Russia (minus the kokoshnik, I couldn't find a good image that also included the kokoshnik and the train)
Another, but of an empress suo jure, Maria Theresa of Austria
I'd like to add, that the artists of these things love to add jewels to garments, which, aside from the abysmal aesthetics, would be a good way to damage the clothing and waste perfectly good material (metal, jewel, cloth, and all). Where as, all of the pictures both of us have provided, show elaborate embroidery (obviously, all done by hand, since machine embroidery is a. modern, and b. very limited in what it can do, as convenient as some find it). I'm not asking for historical accuracy here, just looking at sensible references to come up with something half-way decent looking.
What the Hell?! I just gave some factual information; nothing wrong with that. And there are works that handle this stuff sensibly. Are you trying to be a troll or something? That, or you didn't bother to actually read my posts. The summary of all that is really simple: the way the mangaka handled the formal wear in this looks incredibly dumb — and this could have easily been resolved by looking at actual references.Thank god no manga creator is taking ideas from you.