Effing amazing. The art style is like an updated Record of Lodoss Wars, there's humor, drama and adventure, with some appropriate bloodshed where it matters, not gratuitous and doesn't fridge or "forcibly love-make" every woman in sight like some fantasy plots tend to.
I wouldn't mind a little romance, but I suppose the hints of Yuri here and there from Nui will sustain me. To those worried about the genderbending, it's played straight, so's to speak, as the MC regards the body he's occupying as more of a loaner, and seems to want it returned to the original occupant in "like-new" condition, even ending fights faster (but no less gloriously) so's not to hurt their fists.
The world-building is very well thought out, albeit a little fast and loose on the magic system, and the demonic faction is actually written in an interesting and sympathetic fashion.
I need to find this in Tsutaya's manga rental section so I can binge on the raws!